2.14.2008

dirty denim and brand values.

Starting with a polemic: Jeans are more or less interchangeable. There are obviously differences in fit and finish, but more or less everything is based on the original designs by Levi Strauss, which are more or less ancient.

The idea that 'Denim maniacs know that the only way to wear raw selvedge denim is to wear it often and never wash it so that the denim develops natural wear and incredibly unique features like a patina, whiskers, and honeycombs' is something I have been exposed to before (and something I'm currently practicing), but it was put back into my head when I read about the Evisu Dirty Dozen + 1 Project.

The general idea is to pass around a pair of jeans, and add value to it by creating a history and a story. Another, similar idea, arguably even more attached to the idea of authenticity that I have encountered is sending the jeans to be worn in farming communities for 6 months, then selling them worked in. (as referenced in this PDF)

What amuses me is the core idea, wearing in denim over time, creating a personal attachment and story, and stepping outside the brand for value, is completely lost. Buying raw denim and wearing it in yourself can be seen as a signifier of dedication, understanding of fashion, and to a certain extent, individuality (the jeans are yours, partially created by you, and unique). But someone else wearing them in, in a particularly authentic fashion, strikes me as missing the point entirely.

This is the same brand of authenticity which seems to mean 'fake in a real way'. This is the brand of authenticity that makes PBR the beer of choice for hipster trust fund kids.

Associations are all powerful, when creating a brand story, and Evisu is obviously counting on that to overcome the questionable authenticity of having cool people wear jeans to increase their value.

My immediate reaction to dirty denim is that it has the value of placing the consumer directly into the brand story - the product is then unquestionably authentic, because it reaches it's value only when used, and even then, only when used in a manner determined by those dedicated to the idea. The jeans are the same product, whether washed or not - but expressing an understanding of the 'proper' course of action is basically a statement that the brand considers their time with the product preparation, and the consumer should consider it the same.

Masterminding programs to 'create' wear in an authentic manner is amusing, because it's no different than taking a belt sander to the product for 30 seconds and shipping it - except that it also contains a strong whiff of colonialism, masked in the hunt for authenticity. I would be more impressed by the notable charitable value in providing work clothes for farming communities, if it didn't intentionally piggyback on an existing trend. I suppose it amuses me that the charitable aspects are related to getting residents in developing nations to pre-wear jeans for western markets - everything else has been outsourced already.

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